Restaurant Review #71: Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse BBQ (Dallas, TX)


Have I lived up to my promise of eating my way across Dallas? Next stop, Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse BBQ, where I wanted to try their brisket. I didn’t care what else was on the menu or what would get my attention, I was there for brisket. There were several different kinds of large-quantity plates to order, as well as combos, but I didn’t feel like stuffing over a pound of food in my mouth that early in the day. I went with the brisket sandwich plate. A good-sized portion of the dry-rubbed meat came sliced on a toasted bun, along with two sides and a roll. A sign on the wall read that everything was prepared fresh daily. After the meal I had, I would be inclined to agree.

What impressed me the most is that the brisket actually came dry, and there was a line of BBQ sauces on the counter so you could add your own. Many times, BBQ sandwiches are so overly doused with sauce that it’s not only a mess, but makes you wonder if so much sauce is added to disguise an inferior product. The meat was cooked adequately and there was hardly any fat. I added a bit of a tangy sauce to my plate so I could dip my sandwich in it.

My choices for sides were the mashed potatoes and fried okra. Now, when it comes to mashed potatoes, I am very picky. Not to brag, but I can whip up a killer batch of the stuff myself, so for this to impress me, it had to be good. The scoop was of a hearty size, and there were even bits of skin present. It was not overly buttery, yet it was not dry. The best way to describe them would be “earthy”. Maybe the best I’ve had in a restaurant. I usually stay away from them because places up in New Jersey make either instant or add so much butter and milk that you could swim through them on the plate. Sonny Bryan’s made them perfectly. I was pretty close to asking for a side to go on my way out. It also came with a cup of white gravy, which was delicious. As for the okra, I never had it before, and since they were deep-fried, they did not have much flavor. However, they were incredibly crunchy, so I enjoyed them. Then again, isn’t everything better deep-fried?

I know, it’s a crime that it took me until Day 3 in Texas before making it to a BBQ joint, but it was worth the wait. This was a no-frills approach to authentic BBQ. My meal was also washed down with a local Dallas Blonde beer, a pint of which cost only $5. It was cold, fresh, and complimented the meat well. If I had the time to do so, I would have come back here again before leaving! 4 out of 5 stars.

This post was originally published here. Sonny Bryan’s Smokehouse BBQ is located at 325 North Paul Street in Dallas, Texas.



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